1967 Christian Dior Silk Cocktail Dress with Chain Collar and Jacket

now, THAT is couture

enoki seal of approval


Inside every designer, no matter how well-behaved and dignified he or she might outwardly appear, is a little imp that acts much like a spoiled brat - taunting the other children. This little dress imp speaks to most other designers, "Ya ha - you wish!", and they certainly must. A genius black silk cocktail dress that has a little military flavor but is far from the ranks of barrack-sharing enlisted grunts. Marc Bohan for Christian Dior- Paris, labelled "Printemps- Ete 1967", which is Spring 1967, dress is numbered 135744 and the jacket, 135745. Most people use the term "couture" erroneously, meaning anything designer but couture is a term reserved for items that have been custom-made for a particular woman, although they range anywhere from tailor-made to straight from the atelier of a well-respected house, like Dior. But what about the dress?? Well, to properly describe it, we would have to curse quite a bit for emphasis. A gold chain link collar, which hooks at the back, is anchored to the dress with two button over tabs at the front of the neck, leaving the entire upper back exposed. What look like panels over each breast are actually pockets that you can slide into from the outside edge of the dress. Lined with its own corset top that is boned for support, it is made of twill woven silk that is slubbed like dupioni but is perfectly matte and rich. The matching jacket has a clever collar that dips low enough to expose the chain collar and has those same high pockets that look like panels. Unevenly spaced black buttons, raglan sleeves and a slightly fuller sleeve would also look great with Marc Jacobs white pants but that's your choice. The pockets are obviously not meant to be stuffed with things but you can tuck an end of a scarf into each pocket and let the silk drape across your shoulders in back, as we've shown here. As you would expect from a Christian Dior couture piece, the construction is far superior to almost every single modern piece you have in your closet - this is a seriously fabulous pair. Bust measures 34", hips 36" and length 35". Jacket has a shoulder span of 15", outer sleeve 24" and length 18" and is lined entirely in black silk crepe, while the dress is lined in black silk organdy. Both pieces are in excellent, if not flawless, condition. sold
the back

the collar

the pocket

the jacket

the jacket pocket

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